Siem Reap, a small little town in Cambodia is home to the ruins of the great Khmer Civilization dating back a thousand years. About 12 kms north of the town one comes across huge stone structures – cities and temples – built by the ancient people, and now half eaten by the dense rainforest.  Of all the structures, the most famous is Angkor Wat, but this post is about a smaller, but no less attractive structure – the Bayon.

Bayon is situated bang in the centre of the walled city of Angkor Thom (literal translation: Great City). Bayon was built to embrae all religions of the kingdom, but was primarily consecrated as a Buddhist temple.  There used to be a giant statue of the Buddha in the centre, but apparently it was torn down when the state religion adopted Hinduism.

At first glance, Bayon looks like a jumble of rocks, but as you walk towards the structure over the stone causeway, the intrigue of the Bayon hits you. You suddenly decipher faces made of stone on all the towers. There are a total of 216 faces on the 54 towers. No one knows for sure what they signify, though theories abound. One school of thought says the face is that of the king Jayavarman VII who had the structure built. The faces which look in all four directions signify that he was there eternally looking over his city and people. Another school of thought says that it is the face of Buddha or Lokeshwara, who is watching over the city and its people.Whatever the reason for the faces, one thing is for sure that when you sit on the top deck surrounded by the serene faces, a sense of calm takes over.

Sitting in the shade on the stone levels of Bayon and gazing at the serene faces can give you a feeling of peace

Sitting in the shade on the stone levels of Bayon and gazing at the serene faces can give you a feeling of peace

A few of the faces at Bayon, the temple that is at the heart of Angkor Thom

A few of the faces at Bayon, the temple that is at the heart of Angkor Thom

On the upper levels of the Bayon, you will find local artists who make sketches of the view, and sell them. If you are looking for a cheap souvenir, a sketch can be a good option. Don’t forget to bargain though. On the lower walls, there are bass reliefs depicting scenes from the day-to-day life of the ancient people.

So when on a trip to Siem Reap, I would suggest you start with this enigmatic structure, and finish your site-seeing with the magnum opus of the civilization – Angkor Wat.


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